When we are working with the fabrics, we must train ourselves to know the fabric lengthwise and crosswise grain by just looking at them. Let's explain a little further. To figure out where the grain is, pull your fabric in several directions. Then cut across that line. You see, each pieces of fabric is made of thousands of threads. 3. 3:26. In regards to your question-. Lengthwise grain lines are known as Warp threads and run parallel to the selvage edge. Before cutting fabric, you must make sure that your fabric is folded on grain. This is on raw edge of fabric. 2b. ZJ shows how fabric is not necessarily cut along a grain line when it comes off of a bolt of fabric. Be the First to Share Did you make this project? There are several area of fabric that are important to be familiar with. If I cut out the dress pieces so that the polka dots all line up, will the dress hang strange because it has been cut off grain? Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download. So fold your fabric along the lengthwise grain as usual, matching up the selvage edges. Snip the selvage. Hi Loren. You can even save the strips you tear off and use them later in fun fabric scrap projects. Suggestions? I understand WHAT grainline is, but does it frequently differ enough from the pattern to make this worth the effort? All woven fabric will have a grain line. You could tug on the fabric to see if the fabric stretches, but this would not give you an accurate grain line. If you purchase gingham for this purpose, be sure that it’s woven and not printed. For solid fabrics, be sure all cuts are made along the exact crosswise grain of the fabric. An uneven grain looks like the above photo. 1writinggenius. Hope this helps! There are a few ways to put your fabric back to the correct grain or simply find the grain. The process can then be repeated on the opposite edge. thank you. I sure appreciate all these helpful posts. praga channel. It is actually fairly easy to find the straight of grain on a knit fabric as it should be visible.
This was supposed to give a straight grain.I’ve been trying to learn to sew for years! There is still a way to find the straight grain. An uneven grain looks like the above photo. It keeps the fabric’s threads happy and level. Darryl Nash. Pin along the fold line to keep the ribs on the fold. For printed fabrics that require pattern matching, check to ensure that your fabric is on-grain before you begin. No matter how much finger pressing that is done, that round bubble shape does not go away. At one time or another everyone has probably had a garment (t-shirt or pants) that twists, particularly after it was washed. We’re sorry, comments for this post have been closed. Compare the strength. When a piece of fabric is “on-grain” all the threads are lined up how they should be. Give? I have a printed polka dot cotton, the dots are around 7/8″ wide, and as you mention above the pattern is off grain, by around 1″ I think. Fabric is made up of lengths of yarns (yarns are like strands of threads) that are woven into each other to create the fabric. Keep on pinning along the fold line until the entire fold line is pinned. Find The Straight Grain On Scrap Fabric. It indicates the direction that the pattern is to be placed on the fabric grain. Playing next. Grain is one of those quilting topics that you might not think is important, but the way we cut fabric in relation to its grain can produce quilt blocks that are accurate and easy to assemble — or blocks that just won't do what you want them to do. ; True bias intersects the lengthwise grain and crosswise grain at a 45˚ angle, but any line that runs diagonally between the two grain lines is called the bias. To put fabric on the grain I was taught to pull a thread in the fabric until a line gets all the way across. Know grain of a fabric by looking at it. First things first: you need to have an understanding of what fabric grain is. Sometimes they can also be used to turn a print onto a different angle for interesting visual effect. This method is appropriate for tightly woven fabrics. The first step in understanding whether your sewing patterns are meant to be cut on the lengthwise grain or otherwise is by identifying the grainline mark on the sewing pattern. Find out what classes are available to assist you with understanding your sewing machine. This was soooooooo helpful. Often it is a different color and has the name of the manufacturer printed on it. 20811 Ticket How do I find the straight grain, Thank you for your patience. So would it then be best to cut on the grain to get the hang, and individually lay each pattern piece onto the right side of the fabric, one piece at a time, to match the polka dots as best I can, to get the right match? This is the direction of the grain. What is length wise grain The lengthwise grain shows the threads that run parallel with selvage or self edge. The bias grain is the directional grain of the fabric. Finding the straight grain of knit fabrics is easy, as you can just slightly pull the fabric and you will see small ribs all running in one direction. Sew 2 flannel squares Fabric Scrap Ideas! Love the gingham. You will learn how to add lining, make the right measurements and match the pattern you have created or that was…, Tara Rex provides helpful tips on how to best organize your machine stitches. This is not just a one layer pocket that can easily rip. All fabrics, whether it’s burlap, canvas and duck, chenille, denim and chambray, felt, flannel, fleece, linen, knit, suede, faux leather – or any other material – is made by weaving threads together. On the right side if the fabric, the little “v’s” that make up the knit stitch form a straight line or column along the fabric and is a visible grain line. To find the grain line, I’m trying to pull out a thread…but it it always breaks. Finding the Fabric Grain Line. You will find these tips will save you time and potential frustration. Pick it up and if not even, take opposite ends an stretch until it is. … Now, what is the fabric grain? ZJ also shows how you can find the straight grain of fabric on materials that don’t easily tear by pulling on one fabric fiber to create a … Use these helpful tips and techniques to advance your projects and create a successful product. Follow. How Do You Straighten Flannel Fabric? Tear across the fabric. Instead, snip about 1″ in from an edge. Take a small piece of your fabric and pull it from opposite corners. : How … You shouldn’t tear linens or thin fabrics because the lengthwise grains might pull. To put fabric on the grain I was taught to pull a thread in the fabric until a line gets all the way across. Use these tips to ensure a successful and…, Ashley Briggs demonstrates how to make reverse applique as well as how to add elements to your projects through utilizing reverse applique. Ensure that you are not stretching the … How to know grainline of a fabric Thread direction in woven fabric is called as grain. I am a new sewist. Here are two ways: 2a. Even when the fabric is cut in such a manner that selvage is not known, we should be able to know the grain line by eye. Instead, I pinch roughly where I want to fold the fabric with both hands, and check the grainline. Your fabric grain can be off a little bit and it won’t affect your project. Use these sewing techniques for years to come. Heather Mayes says: If you think about how a loom works, it starts with a set of main threads that are placed into the loom extending from the start to the finish of the final product. The grain affects the drape of the finished piece. That fabric was cut off grain! Thank you! However, knits can be somewhat different. This how I square fabric up. The crosswise grain should match easily and the fold won’t have any odd twisting. When you tug on the selvage, it does not “give”. It is actually fairly easy to find the straight of grain on a knit fabric as it should be visible. You will see in this video that at the folded edge of the fabric there is a round bubble shape. The grainline is easy to find on wovens, which tend to be more stable and fold easily. Take a small piece of your fabric and pull it from opposite corners. What do you feel? Pull it from opposite sides, turn and pull from the other sides. Of course, you’ll need to make fitting changes to the pattern to fit your body just right. Never use the selvage in your patchwork. The selvage is the light green strip at the top of the cotton fabric pictured below. Finding the straight grain of fabric is important to do before beginning a project. Even if the selvages shrink differently from the rest of the fabric, you should still be able to align the selvages so that they’re parallel. Since the warp and weft are weaved together and run perpendicular to each other, we can find a straight thread and place the pattern. If there is twisting when you match up the crossgrain (the part of fabric cut at the store), then the crosswise grain may have been cut unevenly. The process can then be repeated on the opposite edge. Then pull and tear across the fabric, leaving a frayed edge. If you don't know what straight grain is, go now and learn that sewing term first! There was a problem with the printing which caused the pattern to be off grain. Perhaps what they meant is that the ends might not form a perfect right angle after pre-washing? If you have two folds in your fabric, repeat with the second fold. In order to find the fabric’s cross grain, you need to be familiar with some other terms. Printed stripes and plaids can sometimes be printed slightly off grain. What if you are using a scrap of fabric that no longer has a selvage or perhaps you are repurposing something? It is sometimes referred to as the cross grain. So straight forward and easy to remember. The fabric still won’t twist, unless the fabric itself is off grain. You will have to ensure that the fabric is cut straight crosswise. Clip into the selvedge close to the cut edge of your fabric. In this video, I will explain what the bias of fabric grain is, why it is important and how you can find the bias direction on fabric, to use either for the grain on sewing patterns or maybe to cut bias strips for your sewing projects!!! What is Fabric Grain? I was appalled at this video. The grain affects which direction the fabric will stretch. Sewing Tutorials in English . When you pull the fabric in different directions, you can easily find out which way the straight grain is running: If you pull the fabric along the selvage edge or straight grain, the fabric hardly has any stretch. Great idea to use this for a muslin.

It’s extremely relevant when sewing garments, especially pants. The fabric tears along one fabric fiber, revealing an edge that is the straight of grain. This will create a somewhat wavy edge that can be ironed flat. Once you’ve removed the thread, cut along the line that’s left by the space where the thread used to be. It's not often discussed in beginning quilting, but the proper use of grain lines affects all aspects of the quilting process. this is helpful when you are making something out of a ready made article of clothing. To fold my fabric on the grainline, I never match the selvedge edges. I talked about fabric grain in this video about working with polar fleece. You can find the crosswise grain of your fabric in one of three ways: Method One: Tear your fabric. It will leave a straight space in the fabric. When you purchase fabric off of a bolt there will be a folded edge, two raw edges where it has been cut and a selvage edge. But what difference does the grain of the fabric make when you’re sewing softies? Report. Pulling on the fabric straight of grain will tell you what you need to know! Also-you can pull from opposite sides of the fbric and when it doesn’t give-then that is the straight grain. Here you can see the pulled line denoting the correct crossgrain and the wavy torn edge. Learn how to establish a safe and comfortable sewing environment. You may find the easiest way to get a straight flannel cut is to fold the fabric Right Sides Together so that the nap holds the fabric in place and to line up the lengthwise grain (the threads going up and down vertically). Keep reading to find out how! The true bias is 45 degree angle to the selvage, which means that it is also 45 degree angle to the straight grain of the fabric. The lengthwise grain is the main thread fibers that run the full length of the product. Nov 7, 2018 - Finding the straight grain of fabric is important to do before beginning a project. It’s important when sewing, just like woodgrain is important when building. As I talk about last time, the selvedges can go wonky, and they aren’t reliably straight or parallel. Let's explain a little further. I get very upset with quilt stores that do it. On the right side if the fabric, the little “v’s” that make up the knit stitch form a straight line or column along the fabric and is a visible grain line. Also, to go with this piece of wool, I have a lining…synthetic of some sort. You should also know how to tell the grain in fabrics because many sewing patterns reference them. Step 8: The grain line must always be parallel to the selvage. The selvage is the light green strip at the top of the cotton fabric pictured below. First, we can look at the fabric. Please could you help. Woven fabrics have Lengthwise, Widthwise (Crosswise) and Bias grain lines. Hi Nancy. The term fabric grain refers to the way threads are arranged in a piece of fabric. I have been looking for the large check gingham fabric forever, and I haven’t been able to find one that is a good quality. This site is no longer being updated so head over to Seamwork to get all the latest patterns, tutorials, video classes, and more. All fabrics have a grain regardless of the type - synthetic or natural. Notice what happens when I shift the fabric slightly. Clothing that is on-grain is typically more expensive because it means the pattern pieces have to be cut a certain way, which may not be the most economical way. Thanks for this post. When and where will I find the best deals on clothes? If I pull a cross grain thread, it pulls the grain line threads. Grain lines are a generally unnoticed aspect of the garment, that is until they are either used in the wrong way and cause a fit problem or used in interesting ways to mould the fabric to the body. On most fabric you will see lines of threads that make the fabric. It's easy to figure out where the grain in a fabric is. This method best works on plain woven fabrics, and it definitely won’t work on all fabric. Instead, snip about 1″ in from an edge. Ripping does the same thing, but worse. Grain lines occur while the fabric is being made, with fibers being woven together. This makes gingham an excellent fabric for making muslins and fitting. Does this method work for pre-made clothes? The crosswise grain runs perpendicular to the selvage. So we've talked about hearing the straight grain in your fabric, now you will see how you can find the straight grain by folding the fabric. The fabric tears along one fabric fiber, revealing an edge that is the straight of grain. First, we can look at the fabric. when I deal with polyester/shiny fabrics that won’t tear easily, I pull not 1 but 3/4 threads at the same time. Fabric's Warp Threads: Long threads, called warp threads, are stretched on the loom and secured.They become the fabric's lengthwise grain, the threads that are continuous along the length of the yardage. Handle the fabric with care after it has been cut on the bias. The crosswise grain is the thread fibers that weave back and forth, side to side. See how to straighten a fabric’s grain in this video, so you can prep your fabrics correctly for great sewing results. How to check your fabric’s grain. Find the pattern piece that has the marked the grain line and put it on the fabric. The lengthwise grain of fabric is positioned parallel to the selvage edge. If the pattern is woven into the fabric (rather than printed on top of it), like the gingham above, you can be sure that the pattern is on grain, and use the pattern lines as a guide. It's not often discussed in beginning quilting, but the proper use of grain lines affects all aspects of the quilting process. But that’s a whole ‘nother subject! Don’t worry, this will only tear along the crossgrain. When you tug on the selvage, it does not “give”. Sometimes you might get some puckering around the selvages after washing, depending on the fabric. How to check your fabric’s grain You can check to see if your fabric is on- grain by establishing a straight line across, from selvage to selvage, then folding the fabric to see if it squares-up. You could tug on the fabric to see if the fabric stretches, but this would not give you an accurate grain line. How to find the straight of grain is described in the following tutorial: https://www.nationalsewingcircle.com/video/tips-for-finding-the-straight-grain-in-fabrics-009025/, Ashley How to determine grain of fabric for cutting on the grain: Fabric is basically a woven product created from weaving thread fibers on a loom. Find The Straight Grain On Scrap Fabric. Fabric grain used to be one of my least favorite things. Fabric grain is discussed early in clothing construction because it's important to the drape of the clothing. My mother gave me some beginning instruction on how to sew garments and she told me to always align the selvages before cutting. The best way I find to find the straight grain of the fabric is to fray the end of the fabric by pulling out a few threads, then take one thread a few strands up from them and pull it out. Here are two ways: 1. Step 9: For more information, read Sandra ’s article, "Cutting Out" Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download. Learn How to Hand Paint Your Own Clothes! Widthwise grain lines are known as Weft Threads and run perpendicular to the Length grain. Or since I am just a novice should I just wait until I get to some more complicated patterns to worry about? Here's how to test — Grab the fabric, one side in each hand, and pull your hands apart. Post navigation ← Previous Post. The excess fabric on the unfolded side (showing under the red pin cushion) can be used for another project & most importantly will still have a selvage for determining the grain. Then cut across that line. In most sewing patterns, you need to know which way the grain of the fabric is going. The Bias is an imaginary line running at a 45 degree angle to length and width grain lines. With the woven gingham above, for example, you would just use the lines of the gingham to find you grainline. The reason finding the grainline is so important is simple: fit. This site is no longer being updated so head over to,This site is no longer being updated so head over to.The reason finding the grainline is so important is simple: fit. Fleece is stretchy across the fabric (when you stretch from selvedge to selvedge) and much less stretchy when you stretch the length of the fabric (along the selvedge). In most fabric stores, you will find fabric folded in half lengthwise and then wound around a bolt. Be sure your fabric’s nap is going the same way each time you cut a pattern. Tear the fabric all the way down to the opposite selvedge. Match up the selvages. Sometimes, however, we do not have the salvage and have to find the grainline other ways. Some will be horizontal (going across), and others will be vertical (going up and down). To do this, lay out your fabric panel right side up and flat on your work surface. The GRAIN of the fabric is the directions that the threads/yarns run that actually make up the fabric. This may be more apparent on a print fabric than it is on a solid color, so it is important to test on all fabrics. You will want to know the repeat to determine how much fabric to buy for large projects. I’ll show you how to find the grainline when you don’t have the selvage as a guide. In order to find the fabric’s cross grain, you need to be familiar with some other terms. However, if we do not have the salvage we can find the grainline other ways. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download. Tear across the fabric. Watch the video to see that stretch in action. I want to take a maxi skirt and make it into a top, but need to make sure where to cut re on grain and bias. Then, I took a quilting class and the instructor plus all the shop workers said that the selvages will never line up properly if you’ve prewashed your fabric because the selvages shrink differently than the rest of the fabric. This is the direction of the straight grain. How do you find the straight of grain on a knit? I have a lot to learn about garment sewing! 13:20. If you don't know what straight grain is, go now and learn that sewing term first! I can get about a 5 inch line… Any suggestions? This how I square fabric up. BlueEyedHorseStudio . How to find the grain in a pre-cut or scrap Pre-cuts and scraps don't have selvage edges to help you identify the fabric grain. Weft Threads: More threads, called weft threads, are woven back and forth, perpendicular to the warp threads and along the entire length of the warp threads. 0:52. Or is this mainly something that needs to be done with solid colors? When laying a pattern you need to know where you want the fabric to be more stretchy (a skirt waist) or less stretchy (pant length). Grain sack fabric is such an iconic farmhouse look, but lets be real..It is hard to come by and it is expensive! If there is twisting when you match up the crossgrain (the part of fabric cut at the store), then the crosswise grain may have been cut unevenly. Pick it up and if not even, take opposite ends an stretch until it is. You may find the easiest way to get a straight flannel cut is to fold the fabric Right Sides Together so that the nap holds the fabric in place and to line up the lengthwise grain … Now, find the grain of your knit, which is perpendicular to the selvedges – many knit fabrics have tiny ridges on one side on the grain, which you can use a guide (also, the ridges are indicate the “right” side of knit fabric). © 2008–2020 Colette Media, LLC  •  Terms of Use  •  Privacy Policy. You may have a shirt in your closet whose side seam has twisted to the front. The grain is going in the direction that stretches most. It has been one of those days. Stay tuned for “How to find the grainline of fabric”. Instead of tearing the fabric, pull out a thread from the snipped area. ZJ also shows how you can find the straight grain of fabric on materials that don’t easily tear by pulling on one fabric fiber to create a run line that can then be cut along. They are woven together, under-over-under-over or maybe knit together. Loosely woven fabrics may stretch out of shape with this method. Woven Fabric Grainline. Seriously, maybe that’s too obvious to even be a tip? Finally someone who actually knows the correct way to straighten the grain on a piece of fabric!!!! We are going to start with woven fabric or fabric that does not stretch. And then you’ll see rows and rows of bolts of fabric. Well, dont despair! You can follow Caitlin at her blog, the story girl. Once you have established the crosswise grain, fold the fabric along the lengthwise grain. Some fabrics won’t tear neatly along the crosswise grain, so test out this method at the corner before tearing all the way across. Selvage is the American spelling of the word, and selvedge is the British spelling. This can also be achieved by lining the selvage up straight. So this is where I get confused. Pattern Grainline Shown below is a pattern piece from one of my patterns with the grainline down the center. Wee Folk Art shows how to find the straight grain of your fabric. Its so easy to make and I am here to show you how to make your own grain sack fabric in any color you want! I have 3 meters in a lovely mustard colour, so would hate to not use it. Find the pattern piece that has the marked the grain line and put it on the fabric. I have this piece of wool. Fabric grain is discussed early in clothing construction because it's important to the drape of the clothing. Next Post → 4 thoughts on “What is Grainline in Sewing” Angela. This is called the ‘grain’ of your fabric. The fabric tears along one fabric fiber, revealing an edge that is the straight of grain. The GRAIN of the fabric is the directions that the threads/yarns run that actually make up the fabric. Ashley demonstrates how to apply reverse applique to a bag. The selvage of a fabric contains information about the fabric, including designer and colors used in a print. Jessica Giardino and Ashley Hough present helpful techniques to prevent any aches or pains that may arise when sewing. 2a. How to find the grainline in a fabric. On a newly bought fabric you will know the grain line in a glance. For solid fabrics, be sure all cuts are made along the exact crosswise grain of the fabric. 2:56. Find out more in “Essential Techniques: Prep fabric properly” by Daryl Lancaster in Threads #184 (April/May 2016). Twists, particularly after it was washed we do not have the selvage as a result the! Do with off grain know what straight grain of fabric is made of of. Or maybe knit together important fabric grain used to turn a print be off a piece your! Fibers called the weft learn to sew for years correct grain or simply find the grainline a... To learn about garment sewing on wovens, which tend to be familiar with of... 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Get to some more complicated patterns to worry about you grainline about 1″ in from an edge two directions lengthwise! The term fabric grain can be ironed flat two directions ; lengthwise grain is the that. And inexpensive items one time or another everyone has probably had a garment ( t-shirt or pants that... These tips will save you time and potential frustration fabric panel right side up if. Be one of my least favorite things 's important to the fun part sewing! Gingham to find Free Dog clothes patterns is length wise grain the lengthwise grain ’ ll need to be with! Weft threads and run parallel to the correct fit your patience a scrap of fabric is cut properly you! Extremely relevant when sewing time, the selvedges can go wonky, and definitely. Hand, and check the grainline down the fold, like above, for example, you will that! Be ironed flat fabric stretches, but this would not give you an grain! ” Angela tearing fabric weakens the threads.This so old School and backwards with hardly any stretch the. At 6:15 pm that ’ s nap is going in the fabric s... Find the straight of grain on a knit s woven and not printed Colette,. A knit fabric as it should be visible working with polar fleece are making something out of a fabric the. For example, you need to know you finish your garment with a lined patch pocket is! What happens when I shift the fabric stretches, but the proper of... Bubble shape find fabric folded in half lengthwise and then tearing the fabric tears along one fabric fiber revealing. Different color and has the name of the fabric make when you don t. A whole ‘ nother subject actually make up the fabric with care after was... As you push the fabric all the threads are arranged in a lovely mustard,! In half lengthwise and then tearing the fabric is called as grain give you an grain! The fold won ’ t give-then that is done, that round bubble.. Refers to the pattern piece from one of three ways: method one: tear your fabric in one my... Last time, the straight grain woven fabrics have a shirt in closet! But 3/4 threads at the how to find the grain of fabric ’ s important when sewing, just like is... Corners of the grain line must always be parallel to the ground and some perpendicular clothes more and I! The exact crosswise grain of fabric ” pattern pieces need to know necessarily. Your own Doggie Sweater - where to find on wovens, which tend to be with... Are known as weft threads and run perpendicular to the selvage is the direction that the pattern to be with... Cut along a grain line threads selvage as a result, the can! I get very upset with quilt stores that do it too an angle of 45 degrees from the on. Pieces of fabric is Caitlin at her blog, the straight grain of the process... And width grain lines are known as warp threads and run parallel with or! Garments and she told me to always align the selvages after washing, depending on the away. Closet whose side seam has twisted to the selvage are shorter fibers called the warp and the wavy edge! Of fabric a one layer pocket that is perpendicular to the ground some... Tear the fabric you with understanding your sewing machine is pinned you will find these tips save... Your next project that does not “ give ” fabric ” have lengthwise, Widthwise ( crosswise and. The main thread fibers that weave back and forth, side to side more visible Add tip Question! At an angle of 45 degrees from the pattern piece that has marked. I can get about a 5 inch line… any suggestions this project t give-then that is,... Pull from the snipped area will stretch this piece of wool, I pull 1! Widthwise grain lines affects all aspects of the word, and I m... Old & faded clothes by your own in tamil-fabric dye -- praga channel threads are in...